Paestum and its Plumbing

Paestum and Magna Graecia

Magna Graecia was the Latin for "Greater Greece". The people who settled it would have called it Μεγαλη Ελλας or Megale Hellas, "Greater Greece".

Greek settlers colonized southern Italy and Sicily in the 8th Century BC. It was absorbed into the Roman Republic after the Pyrrhic War (280-275 BC). However, a small population in the "heel" of Italy still speaks Griko, a language combining ancient Doric, Byzantine Greek, and Italian.

A major city was Ποσειδονια, or Poseidonia, called Paestum in classical Roman times and today.

It's south of Salerno, an easy day trip from the Amalfitani coast.

To get to Paestum from Salerno, take the bus. The schedule should be something like the following. Do check the return schedule carefully, to avoid getting stuck in Paestum overnight!

Temple of Hera

CTSP bus number 34 runs south through Paestum from Salerno. It leaves from the bus stop along Piazza della Concordia, about halfway from the train station to the ferry pier.

Temple of Apollo.

Interior of Temple of Apollo.

The city remained faithful to Rome during Hannibal's invasion of Italy, winning it special favors such as the minting of its own currency. It prospered for centuries, but declined as Rome did.

L: Temple of Hera.
R: Temple of Apollo.

Paestum was abandoned by the Middle Ages, and largely forgotten. Drainage had changed, leading to swampy conditions and malaria. When Pompeii and Herculaneum were rediscovered in the 1700s, these massive ruins started to get some attention again. Now it's hard to imagine it being abandoned due to its being a malarial swamp, as it's pretty dry.

Amphitheatre

Temple of Athena.

Temple of Athena.

Colosseum.

The Plumbing of Paestum

Here is the most likely toilet location I found. It was originally a small room walled into the rear corner of a house. The exterior walls of the house survive to between knee and waist high. The interior walls appear here as lines of vegetation. The space in question, back in that corner of low surviving walls, is approximately 1 meter wide by 2 meters deep. There appears to have been a drain out of the structure from that back corner.

Here is another potential private latrine. It's a small (about one meter wide) chamber off the side of a large home, away from sleeping and food preparation and consumption areas, and away from windows and exterior doors.

Here you see the supports for the raised and heated floors in one of the major baths in Paestum.

I believe that this was a pool, although it may have been a bath instead.

At left, a drain from a smaller bath complex, or possibly part of a public latrine.

At right, a modern public latrine, at the Magna Grecia Cafe near the bus stop for the return to Salerno.

Operation Avalanche:
The Salerno Landing of 1943

When you're done seeing the ancient history at Paestum, it's just a short 1.5 kilometer walk to the beach and the site of the 9 September 1943 landing of the U.S. 36th Infantry Division during Operation Avalanche, the Allied invasion of Italy.

U.S. Army of the 1943 invasion, click here for a detailed version.

After the defeat of the Axis Powers in North Africa, the Allies disagreed as to the next step. Winston Churchill especially wanted an invasion of Italy, "the underbelly of Europe". However, General George Marshall and most American planners wanted to avoid all delay of the Normandy invasion.

When it became clear that the Normandy invasion could not happen until 1944, Operation Husky, the invasion of Sicily, was approved. It happened in July 1943 and was very successful, soon followed by a coup deposing and imprisoning Benito Mussolini.

U.S. War Department map of the 1943 invasion, click here for a detailed version.

Rather than try to gradually move up the rugged Italian peninsula, the Allies wanted to take the major port at Napoli (Naples). However, Napoli was beyond (or just barely at) the range limit for Allied air cover. The beaches south of Salerno were a little closer, and they provided much better landing opportunities as shown below.

The U.S. 36th Infantry Division landed right at Paestum, and the initial hours of the battle passed through the ruins.

Atrani, on the Amalfitani coast west of Salerno.

Atrani, on the Amalfitani coast west of Salerno.

As shown on the map, most of the forces landed on the relatively flat river deltas south of Salerno. The coast west from Salerno through Amafi to the tip of the peninsula is very rugged, with cliffs and nearly vertical slopes 100 to 200 meters high and only very small beaches or piers at a few towns. See my pictures of the coast at Salerno and to its west for why landings on the Italian coast have limited choice.

The coastline above the Salerno harbor.

Amalfitani coast between Positano and Amalfi, west of Salerno.

U.S. Navy photograph of the Salerno landing beach, click here for a detailed version.

             
The invasion went well.

However, the following war up the length of the Italian peninsula was brutal.

The German forces had been in place for a few years, and had had plenty of time to plan and build defenses.

The Allies slowly pushed them north up the peninsula, but it was a matter of hard fighting for each defensive line (typically along a river running down from the central Apennines to the coast). The Germans would then fall back to their next hardened defensive line.

Today the beach near Paestum is a holiday spot. You see the restaurants and cafes as you approach from Paestum.

One reminder of its heritage is the small Italian military logistics facility there.

Rose George's The Big Necessity: The Unmentionable World of Human Waste and Why It Matters is a fascinating description of sanitation conditions around the world. "2.6 billion people don't have sanitation. [....] Four in ten people have no access to any latrine, toilet, bucket, or box."

In September 2009, Morna Gregory and Sian James published a book titled Toilets of the World. It's pretty much the same theme that you find here — photographs and commentary on other people's plumbing.

If you're not bored yet, you might be interested in (or at least tolerate):

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